Article by Fluffy Fude
In my prior article for CDJapan titled “Hidden Gem Makeup Brushes”, I wanted to highlight great value brushes that are often overlooked. In this article I am sharing recommendations on the opposite side of the spectrum and discussing brushes that I believe are “worth the splurge”.Of course, worth is relative and what one person considers “worth it” will vary from person to person but these are brushes that I think are worth the higher price tag. If you are looking to buy special brushes and price is not the main priority, I hope you will find these recommendations helpful. If you already have these beauties, I hope you will enjoy them as much as I do and that they spark joy for many years to come.
Listed below are the splurge-worthy brushes in order from least to most expensive:
- Bisyodo Grand Series G-ES-02 Eye Brush
- Bisyodo Foundation Brush B-FD-01
- Chikuhodo FO Series Powder Brush FO-1 or FO-9
- Eihodo WP Series P-1 Makie Powder Brush
- Chikuhodo Makie Series Powder Brush
- Koyudo Raden Kolinsky Eyeshadow Brush L
- Koyudo White Canadian Squirrel Blush Brush with Sakura Makie Handle
- Koyomo tsuki Aizu-nuri Hananuri Face Brush
- Chikuhodo Z-5 Eyeshadow Brush
- Chikuhodo Z-4 Cheek Brush
About Fluffy Fude
Eye Brushes
Bisyodo Grand Series G-ES-02 Eye Brush
The Bisyodo Grand series includes brushes made from the finest squirrel hair, ebony wood handles, and 24k gold plated ferrules. The G-ES-02 eye brush is the perfect introduction to this series and one I highly recommend to anyone looking to dip into “la crème de la crème” fude that is still appropriate for everyday use. I could go on about how nice the handles are (weighted, ergonomically shaped to sit comfortably in the hand), but what I found most striking about this brush was its versatility and functionality. It is a hybrid pencil and blending brush with strong density and extremely soft squirrel bristles. This combination is perfect for soft but effective blending. I love to use it in the crease, outer corner, and to add color gradually. It has greatly improved my ability to create soft, smoked out eye looks with minimal blending effort.
Bisyodo Foundation Brush B-FD-01
Another exceptionally elegant series is the Bisyodo series with the African Rosewood handles and 24k gold plated brass ferrules. This series features high grade saikoho goat hair and all of the brushes I have tried from this series are outstanding. One of my all-time favorites from this series is the paddle shaped foundation brush. This brush is dense yet soft and can handle cream and liquid products such as foundation, cream blush, and bronzer beautifully.
Chikuhodo FO Series Powder Brush FO-1 or FO-9
The entire Chikuhodo FO Series is splurge worthy and one cannot go wrong with the face brushes in this series, but I want to highlight the powder brushes in particular as these feel the most luxurious. The FO-1 (45mm hair length) and FO-9 (51mm hair length) are similar brushes with differences only in size. Bigger is not always better so if deciding between the two brushes please consider which hair length size best suits your preferences. I have had the FO Series for over two years as of writing this and can confirm that every time I pick one up, I am still impressed by the softness and performance of the silver fox bristles. These brushes are silky soft yet durable and I greatly value being able to use them over tacky surfaces, something I am not able to do with squirrel powder brushes in this hair length.
Eihodo WP Series P-1 Makie Powder Brush
The Eihodo P-1 Powder brush is a large face brush made from squirrel hair that is 55mm long. This hair length is on the longer side for squirrel brushes and as such the brush will be limited in use, but the long hair length is also what gives it the luxurious feeling. I use mine only for finishing powder. There are a few versions of the P-1 brush with various handle designs. I prefer the makie handle designs as the makie adds an extra touch of opulence and beauty.
Chikuhodo Makie Series Powder Brush
No list of “splurge worthy” brushes would be complete without a Chikuhodo Makie series powder brush. The makie designs vary from version to version and sadly many have been discontinued. The version currently available is the MK-SK Sakura which I do not own, but I have all the versions prior to it and can recommend them all as extremely special pieces that combine art, Japanese craftsmanship, and functionality. Compared to the Eihodo P-1 brush listed above, the MK brushes have an oval ferrule and slightly shorter hair lengths. One can’t go wrong with either (or both)!
Koyudo Raden Kolinsky Eyeshadow Brush L
The Koyudo Raden Kolinsky L eye brush is a large blending brush and one of the largest kolinsky eye brushes I have experienced in this shape. The kolinsky hair excels with cream shadows, blending them effortlessly and quickly. This brush comes with a high price tag, but it is worth noting kolinsky hair has never been cheap and the handle has a raden (Japanese lacquerware technique using shell inlays) design. If it is in your budget and the shape interests you, it is worth a try.
Koyudo White Canadian Squirrel Blush Brush with Sakura Makie Handle
Beautiful bristles and a beautiful handle, what more can a fude enthusiast ask for? The Koyudo White Canadian Squirrel cheek brush is a classic collector’s piece that is both beautiful to look at and use. The silky soft hairs are great at picking up and depositing pigment. I believe this cheek brush is the best way to experience the properties of white Canadian Squirrel and I simply can’t recommend it enough!
Face Brushes
Koyomo tsuki Aizu-nuri Hananuri Face Brush
It is always difficult to narrow down recommendations to just a few, but if I must conclude I am happy to be doing so with the Koyomo Tsuki Aizu-Nuri Hananuri Face Brush. While I have selected the face brush in particular in this handle type, I also want to emphasize that either the cheek or eye brush in saikoho grade goat hair are all exceptional brushes. These brushes are noteworthy due to the Saikoho grade goat hair which I think is worth experiencing in any of the brush shapes or handles offered.
The Koyomo Saikoho goat hair was sourced from the 1970s or prior, using only the highest quality goat hair parts. As of writing this in 2022, it is difficult to find finer goat hair. The saikoho hair of today simply does not compare. The handles are substantial and made using a traditional lacquer method, Aizu lacquering, making these brushes a truly special collector’s piece!
The Koyomo Saikoho goat hair was sourced from the 1970s or prior, using only the highest quality goat hair parts. As of writing this in 2022, it is difficult to find finer goat hair. The saikoho hair of today simply does not compare. The handles are substantial and made using a traditional lacquer method, Aizu lacquering, making these brushes a truly special collector’s piece!
Honorable Mentions:
After completing the list above, it did not sit well with me that I had not selected brushes from the Chikuhodo Z Series. Perhaps the simple and minimalist design gives the Z Series a mundane feeling especially when compared to brushes with ornate handles. Nonetheless, the Z Series brushes are amazing classics and I wanted to at least include them as an honorable mention. I selected both of these brushes for their versatility, ease of use, and reliability.Chikuhodo Z-5 Eyeshadow Brush
The Z-5 is a large pinched ferrule shader brush perfect for all over the lid eyeshadow application. Despite being on the larger size, it is nimble enough to also be used for blending and deepening color along the crease. I don’t know what else to add that hasn’t already been said about this brush, other than it deserves its high praise and that it is a classic that has stood the test of time.
Chikuhodo Z-4 Cheek Brush
Similar to the Z-5 eyeshadow brush, the Z-4 cheek brush is reliable, multipurpose, and easy to use. It is the perfect size for blush application but can also be used for highlight and precise powder application such as under the eye. It is one of my all-time favorite cheek brushes and I find myself constantly reaching for it. If you are looking for a trusted cheek brush, it is definitely worth the splurge!
About Fluffy Fude
My name is Liz but my fude friends call me Fluffy. I am a collector and admirer of Japanese makeup brushes. I review and discuss makeup brushes on my YouTube channel.
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